Arabian Food

Soups - Lentils with Chard and Lemon


by 'ADAS BI HAAMUD


1 1/2 cups lentils
2 1/2 cubs. Swiss chard leaves
3/4 cup chopped onions
3/4 cup olive oil
1 bunch green kizbara (coriander), or 1 stalk celery
5 garlic cloves
1 1/2 tsp. salt
3/4 cup lemon juice (or to taste)
1 tsp. flour
Wash lentils well and leave to drain overnight. Wash again in morning and pick over. Cook with water to cover in pressure cooker for l0 minutes. Open cooker. Add chard leaves which have been chopped with a few stems and one cup water. Cook under pressure another 8 minutes. Meanwhile fry onions in olive oil. Crush garlic with salt and add to fried onions. Wash and chop kizbara or celery. Add with the onions to the chard and lentil mixture. Stir. Add lemon juice mixed with one teaspoon flour to thicken the sauce. Let simmer until it is like thick soup. Add seasonings. Serve hot. Serves 6.

Save chard stems and boil them to serve as a salad with taheeni (sesame oil).

To cook in open kettle: Boil washed lentils until tender, adding hot water as necessary. Combine lentils with chard, fried onions and garlic mixture. Finish as above.

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Yoghurt Soup (Turkish)

by YAYLA CHORBASHI

1/2 cup pearl barley
2 large onions, chopped
1 pint yoghurt or laban
3 cups chicken broth
2 Tbsp. butter
2 CUp chopped parsley
1 cup chopped mint
1 tsp. salt
White pepper

Put the barley to soak the night before. Drain well and boil untiltender in the chicken broth. Meanwhile cook onion in butter until soft. Combine with barley and broth. Add mint, parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for one hour. Five minutes before serving time add well beaten yoghurt. Serve in heated bowls.

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Fish Cooked in Sesame Sauce

by SAMAK TAJIN or SAMAK BI TAHEENI

1 fish weighing about 2 lbs.
1 1/2 cups taheeni (sesame oil)
1 1/2 CupS chopped onion
1 cup olive oil
3/4 Cup lemon juice
1 1/4 tsp. salt
Water
Clean and salt fish. Refrigerate for several hours. Allow it to return to room temperature, sprinkle with olive oil and bake in moderate oven until flesh seems to flake apart easily under a fork. Meanwhile fry onions in olive oil until yellow. Beat lemon juice and water slowly into the taheeni, adding more lemon juice to taste if necessary. The taheeni sauce will become very creamy. Mix onions into sauce, pour over the baked fish and return it to the oven. Bake about 20 minutes in moderate oven. Some of the sauce will be absorbed into the fish and the onions will be very well cooked. Serve this dish cold.

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Fish - Swordfish on a Skewer (Turkish)

by KILICH SHEESH

Cube the fish and marinate in olive oil seasoned with vinegar, salt and pepper. Place on skewer alternately with a slice of onion, a slice of tomato and a bay leaf. Grill over charcoal, turning frequently. Slide cooked fish from skewer onto serving plate and sprinkle with lemon juice.


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Meat - Kibbeh in Laban (yoghurt)

by KIBBEH BI LABAN

Prepare one recipe of Kibbeh 'Qrass Mashwieh and one of cooked laban. Form kibbeh into 18 balls the size of an egg. Boil one cup of rice until tender. Combine meat balls, rice, laban and half teaspoon each of crushed garlic, salt and dried mint which have been fried lightly in samneh. Simmer gently first on medium fire and later on a low fire as the sauce thickens. Add salt to taste. Serve with rice. Serves 6.

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Meat Patties with Laban

by SHISH BARAK BI LABAN

1 cup ground meat
1 cup chopped onion
1/4 cup pine nuts
1/2 cup samneh (or other shortening)
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
6 cloves of garlic
1/2 tsp. chopped kizbara (coriander)
This is a well flavored dish of very small meat-filled turn- overs smothered in a rich laban gravy. The unusual flavor comes from the combination of garlic and coriander.

Prepare a dough with 1 1/2 cups bread flour, half cup shortening, 1 tsp. salt and half cup cold water. Knead lightly and roll out a thin sheet on floured board.

Make the stuffing as follows:

Fry onions, pine nuts and meat lightly. Season and mix well.

Cut the dough into circles not larger than two inches in diameter. Put a teaspoon of stuffing on each and fold over. Press edges together firmly. Now bend the half circle so that both ends meet. Place on a tray and dry in a slow oven for 15 minutes. Heat one recipe of cooked laban and simmer the shish barak until the dough seems cooked. Crushed garlic, salt and kizbara should be fried separately and gently in a small amount of samneh to enhance their flavors. If fresh kizbara is not on the market, use the dried or substitute a few pounded seeds. Add to laban and simmer. Serve tepid with rice. Serves six.

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Meat - Roast Stuffed Kid (Saudi Arabia)

by KHAROOF MAHSHI

1 15-lb. kid or baby lamb
4 cups cooked rice
2 cups chopped pistachio nuts
1/2 cup chopped almonds
1 1/2 cups sultana raisins
1 cup ghee or butter
2 cups sliced onions
3 1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. kizbara (coriander)
1/2 tsp- coarsely ground pepper
1 tsp. candied ginger, ground

Stuffed kid or baby lamb or sheep is so typical of Saudi Arabian food that no feast, whether a royal affair or a family gathering, will be without it. The meat, surrounded by masses of rice and garnished with hard boiled eggs, is presented to the gathering on a huge tray.

The following recipe is adapted to modern cooking devices. It might be cooked most successfully at an outdoor barbecue, although with careful attention and constant basting, the meat can be satisfactorily roasted in the oven. The seasonings which are listed are authentic and all must be used to achieve the correct flavor.

Have butcher prepare kid for roasting. Rinse inside and out. Wipe dry. Rub carcass both inside and out with mixture of 1/2 a cup of the onions and the seasonings. Mix rice with nuts, raisins, 1 1/2 cups onions, and stuff the animal. Sew the opening. Put the stuffed kid in a large pan. Pour melted fat over it and roast in a slow oven until meat is very tender and outside well browned. Baste frequently with pan drippings. Or, roast outdoors on a rotisserie over charcoal for best flavor.

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Fowl - Chicken with Rice and Tomatoes

by RIZ BI DJAAJ U BANADOURA

1 frying chicken
2 cups rice
1 cup sarnneh (or other shortening)
1 1/2 Cups ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 cup water
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 stick cinnamon
Grated cheese
Soak bulk rice in hot water for half an hour. (This is not necessary with packaged, processed rice.) Cut chicken into serving pieces and brown well in hot samneh. Add tomatoes, tomato paste diluted in water, cinnamon stick, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer until chicken is tender or cook under pressure for 20 minutes. Remove chicken and one-half cup of sauce. Add drained rice to cooking pan, adding water if necessary to make 2 1/2 cups of sauce. Cook rice until tender and fluffy. Spoon rice onto serving dish and shape it with spoon into a smooth, round mould. Arrange chicken on rice. Sprinkle rice with grated cheese. Serve with bowl of sauce.

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Pastries with Meat and Pine Nuts

by SAMBOUSIK

Pastry:
1 1/4 cups bread flour
1/2 cup butter or other shortening
1 tsp. salt
1/2 cup cold water
The sambousik is a close relative of the Turkish boerek. Passed round within minutes after being taken from the hot fat in which they are fried, these are popular fixtures at Beirut cocktail parties.

Sift flour with salt and cut shortening in finely. Add water gradually to make a soft dough. Roll out 1/8 inch thick on pastry board. Cut into rounds with biscuit cutter. Put a teaspoon of stuffing in the center of each pastry. Fold over in half and pinch edges together. Fry in deep fat until brown. Drain on absorbent paper. Some like them hot, some like them lukewarm. Either way, they disappear in a hurry. Makes about 20 Sambousiks.

Filling:
1 1/2 cups lean minced or ground meat
1/2 CUp onions, finely chopped
1/4 cup pine nuts
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
Saute onions until yellow in two tablespoons of shortening. Add meat, nuts, salt and pepper. Fry until meat loses its pink color, stirring occasionally. Pour off excess fat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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Cracked Wheat (Burghul) fermented with Milk and Yoghourt (Laban)

by KISHK

Kishk is a powdery cereal of burghul (cracked wheat) fermented with milk and laban (yoghurt). It is easily stored and is valuable to the winter diet of isolated villagers or country people. Kishk is prepared in the early Fall when the wheat crop is harvested. Milk, laban and burghul are mixed well together and allowed to ferment for nine days. Each morning the mixture is thoroughly kneaded with the hands. When fermentation is complete the kishk is spread on a clean cloth to dry. Finally it is rubbed well between the hands until it is reduced to a powder and then stored in a dry place.

To make kishk porridge, melt one tablespoon of qawwrama. Add several garlic cloves and fry lightly. Add (preserved wheat) two tablespoon kishk and saute for several minutes, stirring constantly. Add one cup water and salt to taste. Boil and stir until the desired porridge consistency is reached. Serve hot.

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Stuffed Squash in Cheese Sauce

by KOUSA QABLAMA AU GRATIN

Prepare kousa qablama. When the squash is cooked, cover with one and a half cups medium white sauce and sprinkle top with toasted bread crumbs and grated cheese. Reheat in the oven until the cheese is melted.

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Artichoke Stew

by YAKHNIT EL ARDISHAWKI

10 artichokes
2 cups cubed meat
1/2 cup samneh (or other shortening)
3 chopped scallions (bulbs only)
2 medium sized onions, chopped
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 tsp. flour
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 tsp. sugar
2 cups water
Clean artichokes well in running water. Trim off tough leaves. Cut stems close to heads. Remove outside leaves and choke from center and cut remaining heart into quarters. Cut each artichoke into quarters. Fry meat in samneh, add onions and scallions and fry until yellow. Add water, salt and pepper. Cook under pressure for 20 minutes. Open cooker. Add artichokes, lemon juice and more salt if it seems necessary. Cook under pressure another 10 minutes. Open cooker. Simmer uncovered until most of sauce has evaporated. Add lemon juice; correct seasoning. Serve hot with rice. Makes about eight portions.


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Cucumber with Laban

by SALATIT KHYAAR BI LABAN

2 1/2 cups laban (yoghurt)
1 cup peeled chopped cucumbers
1/2 tsp. salt
3 cloves garlic
1 tsp. dried mint
Mint gives this summer salad a particularly refreshing taste. Good with kibbeh but not with fish, on account of the laban.

Break the laban curd with a spoon and stir until smooth. Combine with cucumbers. Work garlic to a paste with salt and mix it with a spoonful of laban before adding to the cucumber mixture. Add mint.

Finely shredded lettuce may be substituted for cucumber when out of season.

SALATIT KHYAAR BI LABAN
2 1/2 cups laban (yoghurt)
1 cup peeled chopped cucumbers
1/2 tsp. salt
3 cloves garlic
1 tsp. dried mint
Mint gives this summer salad a particularly refreshing taste. Good with kibbeh but not with fish, on account of the laban.

Break the laban curd with a spoon and stir until smooth. Combine with cucumbers. Work garlic to a paste with salt and mix it with a spoonful of laban before adding to the cucumber mixture. Add mint.

Finely shredded lettuce may be substituted for cucumber when out of season.

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Chard Stems in Sesame Oil

by DLOU' ES SILQ BI TAHEENI

Save the Swiss chard stems when preparing the leaves for mahshie to make this salad. Cut the stems into one-inch lengths and boil until tender. Cool. Serve on salad plates with a taheeni- lemon juice dressing made according to the recipe for taratour bi taheeni.

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Bread Crumb Salad

byFATTOUSH

1 cup toasted thin bread, broken in small pieces
3 medium sized cucumbers, peeled and diced, or
1 romaine lettuce heart, shredded
1 large tomato, or more if desired
1 large white onion, or
8 scallions
1/2 cup parsley, chopped
1/2 cup mint leaves, chopped
1/2 cup baqli leaves (an Arabic herb)
2 cloves garlic
1/2 cup lemon juice, or
1/2 cup sammak water (see below)
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large green pepper
Salt to taste
A local seasoning called sammak gives this salad a different and slightly astringent taste. The original recipe uses leftover, dried Arabic bread, but crumbled melba toast may be substituted.

Put toasted pieces of bread in large salad bowl. Sprinkle with sammak water or lemon juice. (Sammak water is prepared by crushing a tablespoon of seeds and steeping them in half cup o water for 15 minutes. Work seeds between fingers to extract essence. Wear rubber gloves as juice stains the fingers.) Add chopped cucumbers or lettuce, green pepper, tomato, parsley, mint, baqli. Sprinkle chopped onions with salt and add. Mix well and add olive oil slowly. Taste. Adjust salt. Garlic pounded to a paste with salt and lemon juice may be added. Sprinkle with a teaspoon of pounded sammak if available.

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Dried Figs

by TEEN MUTABRA'

Figs are preserved in this manner in Lebanon to be served in the winter as part of nokl, the light refreshments at an informal family party. Figs are preserved in all of the principal fig growing areas of the Middle East for they are highly nutritious. Anise seed is the preservative used to ward off worms and other insects. The figs are usually packed in tins with tight fitting lids or in heavy cloth bags. Children often take handfuls of dried figs to school.

Figs are gathered from the trees as they ripen in the fall. Each one is pressed lightly in the middle with the fingers and placed on a large straw tray to dry. When well dried each fig is individually dipped into boiling water to which a spoonfu of anise seed has been added. Again the figs are spread out to dry and when they are thoroughly dry they are packed away for winter eating.

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Pounded Rice Pudding

by Muhallabieh

1 qt. milk
1/4 cup pounded rice
3/4 cup water
3/4 cup sugar
1 tsp. ma'ez zahr (orange blossom essence)
1/4 cup chopped blanched almonds and
skinned pistachio nuts
This Lebanese pudding is a favorite both summer and winter, especially liked by children and always served to invalids. In the Middle East the rice may be purchased already pulverized. It could also be pulverized at home with a mortar and pestle or in an electric blender.

Mix rice with water and add to milk which has been brought to a boil. Stir and cook until thickened and then add sugar. Continue cooking and stirring until mixture coats the spoon. Add flavorings and bcil a few minutes longer. Pour into individual serving dishes and decorate with chopped nuts.

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Eggplant Omelet

by 'IGGIT EL BATINJAAN

4 eggs
1 large eggplant (batinjaan)
3 onions
1 Tbsp. flour
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
Wash eggplant, peel and chop finely. Mince onions and add to eggplant with salt. Let stand half an hour, then squeeze water out of eggplant. Beat eggs well and combine with vegetables. Drop by spoonfuls into hot fat. Turn once while cooking. Makes about 20 small omelets.

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Cream Cheese

by LABNEH

The arabs relish this cheese at any time, but particularly for breakfast with black olives, olive oil and bread.

start the preparation of labneh by adding to the laban enough salt to taste. pour into a cheesecloth or a coarse cotton bag. let hang overnight to drip dry and remove the whey.

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Pickled Cauliflower

by KABEES EL QARNABEET

1 large cauliflower
2 cups water
1 cup vinegar
2 tsp. salt
1 beetroot (optional)
Wash cauliHower and separate into flowerets. Boil until partially tender. Mix water, vinegar and salt together. Pack the cauliflower into clean jars, cover with vinegar solution, add the beetroot and allow to stand for several days before using.

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Parsley and Sesame Oil Sauce

by BAQDOUNIS BI TAHEENI

1 1/2 cups parsley, coarsely chopped
1 cup taheeni
1 cup lemon juice
1 1/4 tsp. salt
3 cloves garlic
1/2 cup cold water
This parsley sauce is not as well known as hummus bi taheeni but it is equally flavorful and makes an excellent meat or bland fish accompaniment.

Crush garlic with salt and work into a smooth paste with a little lemon juice. Mix taheeni with the garlic and slowly add lemon juice with the water until a smooth sauce like thick cream is formed. Add parsley and more salt and lemon juice enough to give it a tart flavor. Serve cold. Makes about two and a half cups of sauce.

To make this sauce quickly in the electric blender, add lemon juice and water alternately in small amounts to the taheeni. Add garlic crushed with salt. Blend in parsley at low speed last. Parsley should be recognizable so do not overblend the sauce at the end.

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Mulberry Syrup

by SHARAB ET TOUT

Mixed with ice water this fruit concentrate makes a refresh- ing summer drink. Alone it is a good ice cream sauce. Lebanese housewives keep bottles of mulberry syrup on their shelves to serve diluted as a drink to visitors on hot summer afternoons.

Select fully ripe fresh black mulberries and mix a few red berries with them. Put the berries in a muslin bag and press the juice from them into an earthenware or enamelware pan. (Wear rubber gloves as the juice stains the hands.) Measure the juice. For every cup of juice add two cups of sugar. Boil over a high fire until somewhat thickened. Juice should be cooked in a glass or enamelware saucepan to avoid discoloration of the syrup. Stir with a wooden spoon only. Bottle when tepid and seal when thoroughly cold.

Use a tablespoon of syrup per glass of ice water when preparing the beverage. Increase according to taste. Open bottles of syrup should be stored in the refrigerator.

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BURGHUL - cracked wheat

The nutlike flavor of the cracked wheat product which the Arabs call burghul and the Turks can bulgar enhances many dishes prepared in the Middle East. In America it is now widely advertized as a "gourmet food". With the Arabs it has been an inexpensive and easily stored staple for many years. Its easy hand- ling qualities and its high nutritional value have made it an im- portant item on the housewife's food storage shelves.

In the Middle East villagers buy a sackful of wheat in the Fall. They wash the grain and pick it over well to remove small sticks and stones. Then they dry it carefully in the sun, often using the flat roofs of their houses for this purpose. Some of the wheat is preserved as whole grain to be boiled with sugar and raisins for a wintertime dessert. Some of it will go to the min and be ground into flour. At least half of it will be converted to burghul.

Townspeople buy burghul by the kilo in its processed state but villagers and some very conscientious housewives prefer to supervise the grinding of the burghul at home. The wheat must be softened before it is ground. To do this, it is placed in a large pan and covered with water to the depth of about fourfingers above the grain. It is boiled until slightly soft and just until it is about to crack open. Then it is drained and spread upon a clean cloth to dry outdoors.

The wheat may be taken to the mill or ground on a portable rotary grinder at home. The miller sifts the cracked wheat to sepa- rate the fine particles from the coarse ones. Garse burghul is cooked into stews or boiled up to make pilaf, or mixed into kishk. Finer burghul is used in kibbeh and tabbouleh. All of the burghul is thoroughly dried before it is stored away for the winter.

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